Troubleshooting guide
Electric Oven Not Heating? Causes and Fixes
- ✓ $79 diagnostic, credited to the repair
- ✓ 45-day parts & labor warranty
- ✓ Same-day & next-day visits
- ✓ 6+ years repair experience
Quick answer
An electric oven that won't heat most often has a burned-out bake element, a half-tripped double breaker, or a setting like delay start or demo mode turned on. If the broiler works but bake doesn't, the bake element is the first suspect. If neither works, check the breaker, then the temperature sensor, thermal fuse and control board.
An electric oven has only a few parts that make heat: a bake element on the bottom, a broil element on top, and on convection models a third element behind the fan. A control decides when each one turns on, using readings from a temperature sensor.
Notice what still works. If the cooktop works but the oven doesn't, the problem is inside the oven circuit. If the cooktop is weak or partly dead too, look at the power supply first.
Causes, from most to least likely
1.Burned-out bake element
The bake element is the most common oven part to fail. It's a metal tube with a resistance coil inside. When it burns through, it often shows a visible break, a blister or a bright spot that flared before it failed. Many newer ovens hide the bake element under the oven floor.
- Check it yourself
- With the breaker off and the oven cool, look at the bake element for breaks, blisters or burn marks. If the element is hidden, try bake mode for 10 minutes. If the broil element heats but the oven floor stays cool, suspect the bake element.
- The fix · typical $160 – $280
- The element is replaced. On visible elements it's a quick job. Hidden elements take longer because the oven floor or back panel must be removed.
2.Half-tripped double breaker
Ranges use a double breaker that feeds two 120-volt legs. If one leg trips, the display may stay on while the elements get little or no heat.
- Check it yourself
- At the panel, find the range breaker. Switch it fully off, then back on, even if it looks fine. Then test the oven and the cooktop.
- The fix
- If the breaker trips again, stop resetting it. A shorted element or wiring fault needs checking.
3.Settings: delay start, Sabbath, demo or control lock
Modern ovens have modes that look like a failure. Demo or showroom mode lights the display but doesn't heat. Delay start waits hours. Sabbath mode changes how controls respond.
- Check it yourself
- Look for symbols or words on the display. Your manual lists how to exit each mode. Turning the breaker off for five minutes also resets a frozen control.
- The fix
- No repair needed when it's a setting.
4.Failed temperature sensor
The oven sensor is a thin probe inside the oven cavity, usually at the back top corner. If it fails, the control can't read temperature and may stop heating or show an error code.
- Check it yourself
- Look for an error code on the display. Check that the sensor isn't bent against the oven wall or loose at its mount.
- The fix · typical $150 – $250
- We test the sensor's resistance against the manufacturer's specification and replace it if it's out of range.
5.Door lock stuck after self-clean
Self-clean runs extremely hot. Afterward, the door lock motor or switch can fail, leaving the door locked or the control thinking it is, so bake won't start.
- Check it yourself
- Note whether the lock light stays on. Turn the breaker off for five minutes and try again.
- The fix · typical $220 – $380
- A failed lock motor or switch is replaced.
6.Blown thermal fuse
Many ovens have a thermal fuse that cuts power if the oven overheats, often during self-clean. Once it opens, it doesn't reset.
- Check it yourself
- A completely dead oven with good power at the breaker is the clue. Not a homeowner test.
- The fix
- We replace the fuse and check what caused it to blow, such as a cooling fan that stopped.
7.Failed control board or relay
The board switches the elements on through relays. A failed relay leaves one element dead even though the element is fine. Lightning surges are a common cause of board damage in Pinellas.
- Check it yourself
- Not a homeowner test. A board fault is less likely than the parts above, so rule those out first.
- The fix · typical $300 – $620
- We check for power at the element terminals before condemning the board. Boards are model-specific and may need to be ordered.
When to call a technician
Call us if the breaker is fine, the settings are clear and the oven still won't heat, or if you see a damaged element. Also call if a breaker trips when the oven turns on. We test before replacing, quote a flat written price, and credit the $79 diagnostic toward the repair.
45-day parts & labor warranty
Every repair carries a 45-day warranty on the parts we install and on our labor.
What the warranty covers →Common questions
Why does my broiler work but my oven won't bake?
+
The bake element has usually failed. Each element has its own circuit, so one can fail while the other keeps working. A failed relay on the control board is the less common cause.
Can I replace an oven element myself?
+
On ovens with a visible element, many homeowners can, with the breaker off. Hidden elements are harder. If you're unsure, it's a quick job for a technician.
Is it safe to use my oven if the element sparked?
+
No. Turn the breaker off. A sparking element has shorted and should be replaced before you use the oven again.
Why did my oven stop working after self-clean?
+
Self-clean heat can blow the thermal fuse, damage the control board or jam the door lock. Try a breaker reset first; if that doesn't work, it needs a test.
How much does it cost to fix an oven that won't heat?
+
A bake element runs $160–$280 and a temperature sensor $150–$250, including the $79 diagnostic credit. Control boards cost more, $300–$620. We give you the price in writing before we start.
Related guides
Last reviewed 2026-10-07 by Mako Appliance Repair, Clearwater FL.
Rather not DIY it? We can usually come today.
$79 diagnostic credited to your repair · 45-day parts & labor warranty · Open 7 days · 7:30am–8:30pm