Troubleshooting guide
Electric Stove Burner Not Working? Causes and Fixes
- ✓ $79 diagnostic, credited to the repair
- ✓ 45-day parts & labor warranty
- ✓ Same-day & next-day visits
- ✓ 6+ years repair experience
Quick answer
On a coil-top stove, swap the dead burner with a working one of the same size. If the coil heats in the new spot, the original receptacle or switch is bad; if it stays cold, the coil has failed. On glass-top stoves, a dead element is usually the element itself or its infinite switch, and an element stuck on high is almost always the switch.
Electric cooktops are simple. Each surface element gets power through a control switch, called an infinite switch, that cycles it on and off to set the heat. Coil tops plug the element into a receptacle. Glass and ceramic tops have radiant elements fastened under the glass.
When one burner stops working while the others are fine, the problem is almost always in that burner's own circuit: the element, its connection or its switch. When several burners are weak or dead at once, look at the power supply first.
Causes, from most to least likely
1.Coil not seated in its receptacle
Coil burners plug into a receptacle. If the coil is pushed in crooked after cleaning, the terminals don't make full contact. You may get no heat or heat that cuts in and out.
- Check it yourself
- With the burner off and cool, lift the coil, pull it straight out and push it back in firmly so it sits level in the drip pan.
- The fix
- No repair needed if it works after reseating.
2.Failed coil element
Coil elements eventually burn through. Look for a blistered or broken spot, or a section that glowed brighter just before it failed.
- Check it yourself
- Swap the dead coil with a working one of the same size. If the working coil heats in the suspect spot, the original coil has failed. If it doesn't, the problem is the receptacle or switch.
- The fix · typical $160 – $290
- A failed coil is a simple replacement. Order by your range's model number.
3.Burned receptacle or terminal
Loose or worn terminals arc, which burns the receptacle and the coil ends. Once that starts, it gets worse quickly and can damage the new coil too.
- Check it yourself
- With the breaker off, look at the receptacle and the coil terminals. Black, pitted or melted spots mean it's burned.
- The fix · typical $160 – $290
- The receptacle is replaced, and usually the coil too, since a burned terminal ruins the new part's connection.
4.Failed infinite switch
The infinite switch behind each knob cycles power to the element. When its contacts wear out, the burner may not heat, may only heat on high, or may stay on full no matter the setting.
- Check it yourself
- If the burner glows bright red on low, or won't turn off, the switch is the likely cause. Turn the breaker off if a burner won't shut off.
- The fix · typical $160 – $290
- The switch is replaced. It's a common repair on both coil and glass-top ranges.
5.Failed radiant element on a glass-top
Radiant elements under the glass can burn out, just like coils. Some have a built-in limiter that shuts them off if they overheat. Dual or triple elements may have one ring fail while the other works.
- Check it yourself
- On a glass-top, look at the burner area when it's on. No glow at all, or one ring of a multi-ring element not glowing, points to the element or its switch.
- The fix · typical $160 – $290
- We test the element and switch to find which has failed and replace that part. Elements are fastened under the glass, so the top is lifted to reach them.
6.Tripped breaker leg or power issue
Ranges run on a double breaker. If one leg trips, some burners may work and others won't, or burners may heat weakly.
- Check it yourself
- Turn the range breaker fully off and back on. If more than one burner is out, check the oven too.
- The fix
- If the breaker trips again, stop resetting it and have the range checked for a short.
7.Touch control or board failure
Many newer glass-tops use touch controls instead of knobs. A failed control board or relay leaves an element dead or stuck. Power surges during summer storms are a common cause.
- Check it yourself
- Note any error codes or unresponsive touch areas. Try a breaker reset for five minutes.
- The fix · typical $300 – $620
- We test the element and wiring before replacing a board. Touch-control boards are model-specific and may need ordering.
When to call a technician
Call us if the coil swap test points to the receptacle or switch, if a burner won't turn off, or if a glass-top element doesn't heat. Stop using a cracked glass top until it's repaired. We test before replacing parts, quote a flat written price and credit the $79 diagnostic to the repair.
45-day parts & labor warranty
Every repair carries a 45-day warranty on the parts we install and on our labor.
What the warranty covers →Common questions
Why does my burner only work on high?
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The infinite switch is usually worn. Its contacts no longer cycle the element correctly at lower settings.
My burner won't turn off. What should I do?
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Turn off the range's breaker right away. A burner stuck on high is usually a failed switch or relay, and it needs repair before you use the range again.
Can I replace a coil burner myself?
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Yes. With the power off and the burner cool, pull the old coil out and plug in a new one made for your model. If the receptacle is burned, replace that too.
Is a cracked glass cooktop safe to use?
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No. Liquid can seep through the crack to live parts underneath. Stop using that cooktop until the glass is replaced.
How much does it cost to fix an electric burner?
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Surface elements and infinite switches typically run $160–$290, including the $79 diagnostic credit. Touch-control boards cost more, $300–$620.
Related guides
Last reviewed 2026-10-07 by Mako Appliance Repair, Clearwater FL.
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